Sunday, February 28, 2010
The Most Famous Temples of Varanasi
1) Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Originally built in 1776 by Maharani Ahilya Devi of Indore, the towers of the temple were gold plated by the Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1835 who donated 1000 kg of gold. The ‘shivalinga’ in the temple 60 cm tall and 90 cm in circumference housed in a silver altar
2) Kal Bhairav Temple: Kal Bhairav is another name of Lord Shiva and refers to one of his rather aggressive ‘forms’ or avatar. It is believed that Kal Bhairava was freed of a curse only after he took shelter in Varanasi or Kashi. He is worshipped as the ‘Kotwaal’ of Kashi/Varanasi. The word ‘Kotwaal’ of the Hindi language is used to refer to the person who is responsible for the general well being and law and order situation of a city. It is generally believed that anyone who comes to Varanasi must visit the KalBhairav temple and seek his blessings if he intends to have a safe stay in Varanasi. The Temple lies in the Visheshar Ganj area of Varanasi.
3) The Goddess Durga Temple : The Durga Temple lies in the Durgakund area of Varanasi and is dedicated to goddess Durga. The temple was built in the eighteenth century in the Nagara style of temple architecture. Made of red stone, the Durga temple has a muti-tiered shikhara or spire. There is also a rectangular water tank adjacent to the temple.
4) Manas Mandir : Also known as the Tulsi Manas Mandir, this temple is believed to be built at the spot where the great poet, Tulsidas wrote some parts of the great Indian epic , Ram Charitmanas or the Ramayana. This temple was built in 1964 in pure white marble and is dedicated to Lord Rama. Worth seeing is the beautiful landscaping around the temple and the engraving on the walls depicting scenes from the epic – Ramcharitmanasa. The temple is near the Durga temple in the Durgakund area.
5) The New Kashi Vishwanath Temple: A replica of the original Kashi Vishwanath temple, this was commissioned by one of the richest industrialist families of India – the Birlas. Built in white marble, the temple has a ‘Shiva Linga’ in the inner sanctum Sanctorum and the walls are inscribed with the verses from ancient Hindu scriptures. The temple is located in the campus of the famous Banaras Hindu University near Lanka area of Varanasi.
6) Sankat Mochan Temple : One of the most visited temples in Varanasi, the Sankat Mochan temple is believed to have been established by the legendary poet, Goswami Tulsidas. The temple is devoted to Lord Hanuman who is believed to save his devotees from the adverse effects of a malefic Saturn. The temple is highly revered as it is believed that Lord Hanuman clears all the obstacles from the path of his devotee. The campus of this temple is home to thousands of monkeys who stay here and feed on the offerings from the devotees. The monkeys are not known to harm anyone in the temple campus though.
7) Annapurna Temple: This temple is dedicated to Goddess Annapurna. She is the goddess of food and general prosperity and is believed to be an incarnation of goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva. Devotees throng this temple to be blessed with prosperity in life and to be free from going hungry ever in life. There are two idols at the temple – one is made of gold and other is made of brass. The gold idol is reserved for special rituals held on important occasions. Anna Daan or giving away food grains to beggars is common practice at this temple as it is believed to counter the sins of the individual.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Varanasi in the grip of colours as Holi brings in sprays of Gulal and Abeer
A day before Holi, a bon fire is lit in every neighbourhood , which is called 'holika dahan'. This is symbolic of the annihilation of evil and has its roots in the mythological story of Prahlada and demoness Holika.
The next morning, people don their old clothes and take to the streets greeting each other by spraying powders(Gulaal and Abeer) of different colours and/or spraying coloured water from 'pichkari'- cyclindrical plastic vessels that have a spraying nozzle for the spray effect. The women and children shoot canons of balloons filled with colured water at the men on the streets from the roof tops and balconies.No one is spared. The more ardent fans will fill a small water tank with coloured water and then they would pick up their prey and throw him in to the tank, ensuring that he undergoes a complete change of colors.All around, one can see human faces painted with the most incredible hues of colours and everyone seems happy about it.
Popular tradition in Varanasi during Holi involves drinking of 'Thandai' or 'Bhang' which is a intoxicating drink made from the poppy seeds. So you would find, groups of men, swaying as they walk, singing the 'songs of holi' and completely drenched in colours.And the naughtier among the group, use special type of colours which would stay on for days even after repeated washing.Though harmful for the skin, there is no way you could dictate the choice of your colour to the carzy fans of holi in Varanasi.
The riot of colors goes on till late in the afternoon.Then it's time for the rather painful process of trying to wash away the colors which refuse to be washed off despite several sessions of scrubbing with the best of soaps and shampoos.Frustrated, many swear that they would not participate in Holi next year.But it's more like the new year resolutions which are made to be broken :).
In the evening, people put on fresh, new clothes and visit their relatives and sweets and pleasantries are exchanged.For the kids, it's a time to show off as they talk about their perfect hits they scored shooting the water filled balloons.While the day does come to an end, the fervour remains in the air for some time. The colours that still remain on the faces of people even after days have gone by are pleasant reminders of the good times everyone had.
In Varanasi, Holi, in a rather indirect way serves to erase the differences of caste,creed, social status and skin colour. The faces of all and sundry that get painted with different colours seem to hide away the differences of caste and status and everyone gets painted in the beautiful colors of Holi.
Friday, February 26, 2010
Top Ten Places to See in Varanasi
2) Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Originally built in 1776 by Maharani Ahilya Devi of Indore, the towers of the temple were gold plated by the Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1835 who donated 1000 kg of gold. The ‘shivalinga’ in the temple 60 cm tall and 90 cm in circumference housed in a silver altar.
3) St. Mary’s Church: St. Mary’s is probably the oldest Protestant Church in North India outside Calcutta. The foundation stone was laid on 29th April 1810 by Daniel Corrie. This beautiful Church is situated in 11.25 acres of land and has historic background which will be seen from the monuments in the campus of British soldiers who died in action. St Mary"s Church is situated in the cantonment area of Varanasi. This church has a low tower, spire and projecting portico. There are three simple louvered doors beneath plain cornices alternating with two bays, each with white plaster niches. Above each doorway is a rectangular fanlight, protected from the glare of the sun by a plain timber canopy - a simple device which has a major architectural impact.
4) Manikarnika Ghat: Also known as the “Mahashamsana’ or the ‘ Great Cremation Ground of the World’, Manikarnika ghat is where dead are brought from all over the country to be cremated by fire. There is a ‘sacred fire’ that has been burning since centuries and it is the fire from this that is used for the cremation. It is believed that those who are cremated at Manikarnika ghat attain moksha and their souls are set free from the endless cycle of birth and death.
5) Bharat Kala Bhavan: An archaeological museum built in the campus of the Banaras Hindu University. Established in 1920, the museum has vast collection of over 100,000 artifacts like paintings, textiles, costumes, decorative arts, Indian philately and literary and archival materials. The first floor has Numismatic Gallery (collection of coins), Archaeological Gallery, Decorative Art Gallery, Benaras Through the Ages Gallery and Galleries on Alice Boner and M. K. Gupta. There are some proposed extensions of galleries like the Gallery of Archive and Literary Materials, Gallery on Textiles and Costumes and a Gallery of Metal Images.
6) Ramnagar Fort : This fort-palace was built in the eighteenth century and is the home of the king of Kashi( or Varanasi). Built in red sandstone, the fort has a museum displaying the Royal collection which includes vintage Cars, Royal palkies, an armory of swords and old guns, ivory work and antique clocks. Also, on display are ornate palanquins, gold-plated howdahs and weapons.
7) Chunar Fort: Built by Maharaja Vikramaditya, the king of Ujjain(in Madhyapradesh), this fort had been the stronghold of Babar followed by Shershah Suri, Humayun, Akbar, Aurangzeb and finally,’ the Britishers. Chunar fort is constructed at a height of 80’ to 175’ from the land level of Chunar. The fort area is approx. 3400 Sq. yard, its length is 800 yard & width is 133 to 300 yard. The Chunar Fort is located at a distance of 42 kilometers fron Varanasi city. Worth seeing inside the fort are the Sonva Mandap, Raja Bhartihari Samadhi, Bavan Khamba & Solar Watch.
8) Sarnath : A small town barely 12 kms from Varanasi rail junction, Sarnath is one of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage and heritage site. This is where the Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon. Sarnath is home to the excavated remains of the ancient Buddhist monasteries, the famous Lion capital – India’s national emblem, a archaeological museum, huge stupas including the Dhamek and Chaukhandi Stupa and many Buddhist temples built here by missions from Japan, China, Tibet, Cambodia and others.
9) Nepali Temple: This unique temple is situated on the Lalita Ghat on the bank of the river Ganges. The temple was commissioned by the King of Nepal and is built in the Nepali style of architecture by workers who were brought from Nepal to create this marvel. The wood used in the temple is also found in Nepal. The specialty of the wood used in the temple is that termites do not eat this wood. The temple features magnificent wood work and there are erotic wooden sculptures built in to the external columns and facades.Due to the erotic sculptures, it is also called ‘mini-khajuraho’. Another popular name for this temple is the ‘kaathwala’ temple.
10) Lakhania Dari Caves and Waterfall: Located at a distance of around 45 kms from Varanasi are the beautiful small hills of the Vindhyanchal mountain ranges. Ensconced in the hills is a mesmerizing waterfall that drains in to a small clear water lake. This is the Lakhania Dari. A small stream originates from the lake and huge boulders are strewn all over the two km long trek that leads to the waterfall from the lake. Ancient rock caves can be seen on the rocky face of the hills that surround the region. A visual treat for nature lovers and adventure seekers.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
What the Buddha Preached in his first Sermon at Sarnath?
He prescribed the eight-fold path to remove the causes which included:Right speech, Right action, Right livelihood, Right effort, Right mindfulness, Right concentration, Right attitude and Right view.
Eventually, Sarnath evolved and developed as a center of the Sammatiya school of buddhist learning.Several other 'suttas' were preached by Gautama Buddha over the next few years.These are:
the Anattalakkhana Sutta,
the Saccavibhanga Sutta,
the Pañca Sutta (S.iii.66f),
the Rathakāra or Pacetana Sutta (A.i.110f),
the two Pāsa Suttas (S.i.105f),
the Samaya Sutta (A.iii.320ff),
the Katuviya Sutta (A.i.279f.),
a discourse on the Metteyyapañha of the Parāyana (A.iii.399f), and
the Dhammadinna Sutta (S.v.406f), preached to the distinguished layman Dhammadinna, who came to see the Buddha.
Later though, towards the end of the 12th century, Sarnath was destroyed by the invading Turkish Muslims. The site was discovered by Alexander Cunningham during the British rule in India.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Emergency services in Varanasi/important phone numbers in Varanasi - whom to contact in emergency?
Banaras Hindu University Hospital Emergency Phone Number: 0542-2309308
IMA Blood Bank and Ambulance Services: 0542-3209111/2414122/2414597
Shiva Prasad Gupt Hospital : 0524-2214723
Railway Hospital: 0542-262408
Varanasi Eye Bank Society : 0542-2202263
Varanasi District Magistrate : 0542-2508585
Varanasi Police Control Room Number : 100, 0542-2414150,2419483
Superintendent of Police, Varanasi : 0542-2414141
Varanasi Railway Enquiry number : 131, 139, 2504131, 2504031
Varanasi Airport Number : 0542-2622081-090
I would suggest keeping a note of these numbers when traveling to Varanasi. Remember that when dialing these numbers from a mobile,if it's on international roaming, you will have to dial, 91-0542(city code for Varanasi) and then the number.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
The Story of the 'Doms' - the caretakers at the cremation ghats in Varanasi
The Raja Harishchandra Ghat and the Manikarnika Ghat are the two cremation grounds where the dead bodies are offered to fire. Manikarnika Ghat occupies a elevated status as compared to Harishchandra ghat and it is a costly affair to cremate a body here as the 'Doms' at Manikarnika charge exorbitantly for their services.
Who are these doms?
Doms belong to the 'Dom' community of India, who are considered outcastes and mostly engage in professions such as agricultural labourers, weavers,and cremation of dead bodies.
In Varanasi, at these two ghats, the doms are believed to be very rich.They are known to charge huge sums of money for their role in the cremation of the dead.The current 'Dom Raja' of Varanasi is a multimillionaire.In the Hindu tradition, when the dead body is brought to the cremation ghat, it is the 'dom' who provides the first set of five logs of wood required for the funeral pyre.The rest of the wood is then provided by the relatives of the deceased. The 'dom' then hands over the lighted straw to the person who then lights the funeral pyre with that bunch of burning straw. IT is for these three services that the 'dom' exacts his fee which he decides at will based upon his judgement of the financial background of the deceased and his family.And they are really smart at this and are known to charge huge sums of money from the rich families who bring their dead to Manikarnika Ghat. It is said that when the dead body of the recently deceased former king of Kashi(Varanasi) was brought for cremation at Manikarnika, the dom was paid 600000 rupees and was given the rights to acres of land in lieu of his services rendered.
The 'doms' at Varanasi have become very rich over the years - thanks to this tradition. Legend has it that at one time, the great king, Raja Harishchandra worked as a helper to the Kalu dom, who tended the cremation grounds centuries ago. The king had sold himself to the 'dom'. Since then, the head of the dom's , the chief cremator at Varanasi have taken on the title 'Dom Raja' or the dom king. There are around 30 main doms and after them come the 500 odd doms, who form the second rung of hierarchy.
The doms are the keepers of the sacred fire at the cremation ground, which is never allowed to die down. Death is the constant companion of the doms, who virtually spend their entire lives at these cremation grounds.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
The story of Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi - the Maha Shamsana of the world.
One of the most surprising and unique aspect of the city of Varanasi is that the cremation grounds or the 'shamshan ghats' are located in the city itself and in the vicinity of some of the most sacred temples. The two major one's being the Manikarnika and the Harish chandra ghat.The reason for the presence of these ghats inside the city lies in the Hindu mythology. It is said that Lord Shiva gave Lord Vishnu a boon - that whoever dies here in Kashi(old name of Varanasi) would be liberated from the endless cycle of birth and death and his soul would be set free.And so these cremation grounds were no longer looked down as being impure or unholy places.Instead, they were now considered to be the final link in the journey to being liberated.
The Manikarnika ghat in the past, was where only the royals were cremated while the Harishchandra ghat was for the commoners.There is a sacred well at the Manikarnika Ghat, called the Manikarnika Kund. Manikarnika Kund is said to be dug by Lord Vishnu at the time of creation.It is believed that Lord Shiva had dropped his ear rings in this well during his transcendental dance and hence the name 'Manikarnika' which when literally translated means 'jewelled ear ring'.
Every Hindu in Varanasi aspires to be cremated at Manikarnika after death as it is believed that cremation here is a guarantee of liberation - courtesy the boon given by Lord Shiva.Nevertheless, it's a very costly affair and not everyone can afford it.So the Harishchandra ghat is where most would end up.
Manikarnika is the 'Maha Shamsana' or The Great Cremation Ground where Lord Shiva himself is believed to guide the dead in to the other world.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Different shades of life on the ghats of Varanasi
Tha ghats of Varanasi are by far the most colourful places where one can come across some of the most fascinating sites.I happened to witness a rather astonishing one today myslef. On one of the burning ghats, where the dead bodies are cremated, I saw a person of foreign origin huddled with a group of 'sadhus' who seemed to belong to the 'aghori' sect and they were huddled together around a small fire and talking in whispers. There were two dogs who were obviously their pets who were also part of the get-together.Tis person who was a foreigner was treating the sadhus with utmost respect as they barely spoke and only nodded a couple of times to acknowledge his actions. I could not figure out if he was talking to them in the local language? Had to be, there is no way those sadhus would understand a foreign language.The sadhus looked filthy, unkempt and unfriendly.Yet, our man was bowing to them every now and then. They were sharing a pipe that was filled with 'pot' or 'ganja' or 'grass', an addictive drug and it was being passed around and each had a couple of drags before handing it over to the other.Our man too shared williingly and from the way he was doing it, it was evident he wasn't a beginner. The entire group was seemingly oblivious to their surrounding.After some time, our man, got up, touched the feet of the leader(apparently) and bowed to the others and moved on.The group meanwhile continued the jig. Now,I have heard and read about researchers actually staying and living with such groups to document their findings on the thought and philosophy of such sects and this may well be the case here too.On the other hand, a lot of foreigners are known to come to Varanai because they are addicts and it's easy to get dope or grass in Varanasi.Little wonder that you will find numerous 'hippies' in Varanasi who remain lodged in the cheaper hotels and guest houses and frequent the ghats to lay hand on cheap dope.It's a old and symbiotic relationship.The hotels don't really care what the guy does as long as he pays and these 'hippies' generally keep to themselves and pay on time (god knows how?).They easily manage to befriend these 'sadhus'on the ghats, who gladly share their pipe with them. You will find the hippie crowd in noticeable numbers in Varanasi and on the ghats.Some of them are well known faces for the locals who will smile at them and say something in broken English, only to elicit a knowing smile from the hippie.It's a old bond between the city and these guys and many of them are known to stay over, long after their visas have expired(if they ever had one in the first place).Nobody really cares.Nevertheless, these hippies are a key component in the ecosystem of the ghats and I guess will remain so for years to come.Mind you though, some of them may look like the hippies but they are actually research students and volunteers who might seem to be on of them for their unkempt look. You will have to take a closer look to know the difference :). It's actually fun doing that :)
Ezekiel 25:17, my favorite quote from the movie Pulp Fiction
here's how it goes: "The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of the darkness. For he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon you."
And I love the part where he is talking to Ringo in the cafe and says this.Absolutely, amazing!!.What say!
Thursday, February 18, 2010
The Monasteries at Sarnath Where History Comes Alive
The main heritage site at Sarnath houses the monasteries and the famous Dhamek Stupa and the Ashoka Pillar which was originally surmounted by the Lion Capital of Ashoka, the national emblem of our country India.
Centuries ago, Sarnath was a prominent center of learning and there were Buddhisht monasteries where buddhist monks spent their lives researching and documenting the teachings of Lord Buddha.Lying here are the excavated remains of the monasteries where centuries ago scholars from the Sammatiya and Vajrayana school of buddhism lived and studied and taught.The site was attacked by turkish muslims at the end of the 12th century and plundered and destroyed.
A little further is the four small fragments of the original column of Emperor Ashoka which was surmounted by the Lion Capital which miraculously remained unbroken after the fall and was rightly chosen as the national emblem of India. The column was destroyed during the plunderings attacks of Qutb-ud-din in 1194. The lion capital is now kept in the musuem at Sarnath. The original column was built around 3rd century BC and was made of chunar sanstone that bear the typical shiny Mauryan polish. The lion capital of Ashoka lies preserved in the nearby Sarnath archaelogical museum.The place is adored by the kids and teenagers as they get a chance to witness the icons that lie embedded on the pages of their history books.
Anagarika Dharmapala - Founder of Mahabodhi Society at Sarnath
Mahabodhi Society at Sarnath was founded by Anagarika Dharmapala who was born in Colombo, Srilanka and is acknowledged as the pioneer in the revival of buddhism in India. As per the inscriptions on his statue at Mahabodhi society, he was born in 1864 at Colombo and died at Sarnath in 1933. According to our friend and guide Pankaj, Dharmapal was born in a family of rich merchants in Colombo, Srilanka(then Ceylon). Dharmapala was the first anagarika - that is, a celibate, full-time worker for Buddhism - in modern times. It seems that he took a vow of celibacy at the age of eight and remained faithful to it all his life. Although he wore a yellow robe, it was not of the traditional bhikkhu pattern, and he did not shave his head. He felt that the observance of all the vinaya rules would get in the way of his work, especially as he traveled around the world to spread the tenets of Buddhism.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
The majestic Dhamek Stupa at Sarnath in Varanasi
One of the architectural marvels from the Ashokan era is the huge Dhamek Stupa in Sarnath.The Dhamek Stupa is a44 m high round tower, 27 meter in diameter standing on a stone base made of bricks with ornamental stonework in some places and narrows down in diameter as it moves up. The Dhamek Stupa is again from Asoka’s time, 3rd century BC.
A burnt clay tablet that was found at this spot denoted the stupa as “Dhamaka” which means that it marks the spot where Lord Buddha addressed the five disciples setting the “Wheel of Dhamma” in motion. Buddhist pilgrims and followers perform a right handed circumambulation of the Dhamek stupa as a mark of devotion. The stupa is completely solid like all stupas and cannot be entered.
The Buddhist Monasteries of Sarnath near Varanasi
The main heritage site at Sarnath houses the monasteries and the famous Dhamek Stupa and the Ashoka Pillar which was originally surmounted by the Lion Capital of Ashoka, the national emblem of our country India.
The site has the excavated remains of the monasteries where centuries ago scholars from the Sammatiya and Vajrayana school of buddhism lived and studied and taught. The sight is awe-inspiring to say the least.The site was attacked by turkish muslims at the end of the 12th century and plundered and destroyed.
A little further is the four small fragments of the original column of Emperor Ashoka which was surmounted by the Lion Capital which miraculously remained unbroken after the fall and was rightly chosen as the national emblem of India. The column was destroyed during the plunderings attacks of Qutb-ud-din in 1194. The lion capital is now kept in the musuem at Sarnath. The original column was build around 3rd century BC and was made of chunar sanstone that bear the typical shiny Mauryan polish.
The Lion Capital is now safe at the archaelogical musueum next door.The entire area is dotted with huge trees and it's a pleasure to simply lie down under the shade of one of the trees and wonder about the lives of the men who lived here!!
The famous Chaukhandi Stupa in Sarnath
Now for those of you who do not know- Sarnath is a small town close to Varanasi and is the place where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon after his enlightenment. Sarnath was the site of archaelogical excavations that revealed a large number of structures prominent among them the Stupas and the monasteries where buddhist monks lived and studied.One of the fist stupas that you will see on your way to Sarnath is the Chaukhandi Stupa. This stupa is a huge structure made of red bricks and is called Chaukhandi because of its four armed plan. Chau means four and khand means parts or arms in the local language and hence the name chaukhandi.
The Chukhandi stupa was built around 4th -5th Century AD during the Gupta period. The spot according to the historians is where Lord Gautam Buddha “probably” met his first five disciples/companions after enlightenment. This stupa also finds mention in the written accounts of the celebrated Chinese Traveller, Hiuen Tsiang of 7th century AD.
The image of Buddha in Dharmachakra Pravartan mudra and Leogryphs with swordsmen found here are astonishing remnants of the classical Gupta Art of those times.
The octagonal brick tower crowning the Stupa is actually a Mughal structure erected in 1588 AD by Govardhan son of Raja Todar Mal to commemorate the visit of Humayun, the great Mughal emperor to this place. This is recorded in an Arabic inscription on a stone slab above its doorway on the north side.
The stupa is now maintained by the archaelogical survey of India.
Monday, February 15, 2010
What is the origin of the name 'Varanasi'?
The Ganga Ghats of Varanasi
One of the most visited places in Varanasi is the 'ghats' or the 'stone steps' that stretch along the bank of the river Ganga for a couple of miles. There are a total of 84 ghats that have been built over the last few centuries. There are inscriptions that date back to the 12th century and bring to light the fact that there were only 5 ghats then.Each of the 84 ghats have their unique place of importance and there is a story behind the origin of all these ghats.Among the most popular ones are the Dashaswamedha ghat, Manikarnika ghat, Harishchandra ghat,Assi ghat,and Lalita ghat. It is a unique experience to just walk through these ghats especially during the early morning and evening hours.The place comes alive as the hub of spiritual and religious activities.For those who are not aware of Indian religious customs, the sight of the flames of the funeral pyres, burning on the ghats can be a strange experience.In the evening, do not forget to witness the elaborate and exhilirating 'ganga aarti' ceremony that is performed on some of these ghats.It is a daily ritual where you will witness volunteers swaying their bodies to the thumping sound of drums, burning lamps swaying along with their bodies in a trance like manner.It is a offering to the 'goddess Ganga', the holy river.No trip to Varanasi is complete without a boat ride on the Ganga.It is a singular experience to observe the ghats and the goings-on from the boat as it passes along the ghats.There are ancient temples and mutts along the ghats, each with its own legacy that can be traced back to the bygone centuries.We at aroundvaranai.com will help to unravel and unfold some of these stories as we take you through a 'mystical' walk through the 'ganga ghats'.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Kashi Naresh - The present king of Varanasi(Kashi)
While the erstwhile kingdom was merged in to India in 1948, the respected king is still revered by the people as the Kashi Naresh meaning ruler of kashi or varanasi.
The Kashi Naresh is also the president of the trust that manages the famous Kashi Vishwanath temple in Varanasi.
Due to his active involvement in several cultural activities around the year that are symbolic of the unique heritage of Varanasi, the Kashi Naresh is loved and respected by one and all in Varanasi.
List of Trains to Varanasi
Train No Name Departure Arrival Runs on ClassType
2382 Poorva Express 16:20 05:20 Mon, Tue, Fri Both AC & Non AC
2392 Shramjeevi Express 13:15 02:30 All Days Both AC & Non AC
2436 NDLS DBRT RJDHN 09:30 22:15 Thu,Sun Only AC
2560 ShivGanga Express 18:30 07:30 All Days Both AC and Non AC
2562 Swatantra S Expr 20:35 08:50 All Days Both AC and Non AC
2876 Neelachal Exp 06:30 20:05 Tue, Fri, Sun Both AC and NonAC
3414 Farakka Exp 21:50 15:00 Mon, Wed, Sat Both AC and Non AC
4006 Lichchavi Exp 15:35 06:20 All Days Both AC and Non AC
4008 Sadbhawna Exp 16:30 09:20 Fri, Sun Both AC and Non AC
4258 Kashi-Vishwanath 13:30 05:50 All Days Both AC and Non AC
Tour of the Ramnagar Fort in Varanasi - an icon of Varanasi' royal past
Hotels in Varanasi - a review by travelers who stayed at these hotels
On an average, we met 3 to 4 people who had stayed at a particular hotel before we rated the hotel based on reviews by those who had stayed there. We did this only for the benefit of the readers of my blog. We would come up with more of such reviews when we have more data on the other hotels in Varanasi. However, We did not collect any commercial information about the hotels i.e the price of rooms, cost of food etc. We were looking for a general feedback from the guests and this is what it is:
Rashmi Guest House – Overall Rating is good, One good thing – Great view of the River Ganges
Hotel Radisson – Overall Rating is very good, One good thing – Excellent food
The Gateway Hotel – Overall Rating is Excellent, One good thing – Beautiful lawns and multi-country cuisine
Ganges View – Overall Rating is good, One good thing – Nice view of the River Ganges and the ghats
Ramada Plaza – Overall rating is excellent, One good thing – Good hospitality, good food
Hotel Buddha – Overall rating is good, One good thing – Reasonable pricing
Hotel Clarks – Overall rating is very good, One good thing – Large variety of cuisine
Chaitanya Guest House – Overall rating is good, One good thing – Affordable
Palace on Ganges – Overall rating is good, One good thing – rooftop restaurant offering good view of Ganges and proximity to the ghats
Hotel Ideal Tower – Overall rating is good, One good thing – Spacious rooms
Diamond Hotel – Overall rating is good, One good thing – Budget hotel, affordable costs for budget conscious traveler
Gangaview Guest House – Overall rating is good, One good thing – Good view, located right on the ghats
We hope this would be of some help to other travellers to Varanasi.
The divine aura of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi
It is not very easy to describe in words, the feeling that engulfed me when I visited the Kashi Vishwanath temple of Varanasi. To write about this symbol of Lord Shiva himself, which veritably is the symbol of the Hindu religion itself is not an easy task.
The Kashi Vishwanath temple enshrines one of the twelve “Jyotirlingams” of Lord Shiva and is the focal point of devotion of Hindus from all over the globe who come here to seek salvation or moksha. The temple is located in the Vishwanath Galli near Godowlia in Varanasi and while the original temple was destroyed by the Mughal ruler Aurangzeb, the new temple built very close to the original one is now the center of Hindu worship. The Kashi Vishwanath temple is an ancient temple and many ancient Hindu scriptures are replete with the description of the temple and its religious importance. The Temple has been visited by all great saints- Adi Shankaracharya, Ramkrishna Paramhansa, Swami Vivekanand, Goswami Tulsidas, Maharshi Dayanand Saraswati, Gurunanak and several other spiritual personalities.
Though the original temple was destroyed by Aurangzeb who built a mosque in its place, but the traces of the old temple can be seen behind the mosque. The present temple was built by Maharani Ahilya Bai of Indore in the year 1776 after she saw Lord Shiva in her dream. And Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab had the temple spire and the dome plated with 1000 kg of gold.
There is a small well in the temple called the “Gyan Vaapi” meaning the wisdom well. Legend has it that during the time of the invasion by Aurangzebs army, one of the priests of the temples had jumped in this well to hide the jyotirlinga from the invaders.
Standing in the temple amidst the ringing of the bells and the reverberating recitation of the religious shlokas, the sight of men and women overwhelmed with devotion, I felt as if some sort of electric charge had started flowing through my body. I know it sounds funny, but there is definitely an aura about the place which is inescapable. I was mesmerized and instinctively remembered Lord Shiva and thanked him for granting me this opportunity to be present here at that moment. There are small temples for KAAL BHAIRAV, Dhandapani, Avimukteshwara, Vishnu, Vinayaka, Sanishwara, Virupaksha and Virupaksh Gauri in the complex.
In 1983, the management of temple was handed over to a trust set up the state government of Uttar Pradesh. The president of the trust is Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh, the former king of Kashi (Varanasi) and the executive committee of the trust is headed by the divisional commissioner as Chairman.
The famous Kashi Vishwanath temple of Varanasi
The temple spire and the dome are plated with 1000 kilograms of gold that was donated by the king of Punjab, Maharana Ranjit Singh in 1835.
The temple has a small well called the Jnana Vyapi meaning the Wisdom well. It is said that the Jyotir Linga was hidden in the well to protect it when Aurangzeb, the mughal ruler of India had ordered its destruction.
It is said that a bath in the river Ganges and a visit to the temple would lead to Moksha or liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth.
The Ramnagar Fort & Palace - the abode of the King of Varanasi
Aughar or the Aghori - do they really feast on dead bodies?
In Varanasi lies one of the oldest schools or peeth of the 'Aghori' way of life - Aghor Research and Service Center, Krin Kund. This ashram or school was established by Baba Kinaram in the 16th century.Before I talk about Aghoracharya Baba Kinaram and his teachings, I want to state here what “Aghori” stands for and what are the origins of this aghor sect?
The word “Aghor” when translated literally means “that which is easy or non-terrible” which is the underlying philosophy of the Aghor sect. Contrary to popular perception that “Aghoris” are human flesh eaters and urine-drinkers who practice black magic, “Aghor” philosophy is about absolute renunciation. However, the “Aghoris” do drink liquor and eat flesh as opposed to practitioners of other spiritual sects in India where these things are taboo. But these acts are just symbolic and not a part of their lifestyle. For the “Aghori” these acts are a way of breaking all social conventions.
The “aghors” believe that by breaking these social taboos, true realization dawns. Secondly, for the “aghor” their Lord Shiva is perfect and since he is responsible for everything hence everything that exists must be perfect and so for the “aghor” nothing is dirty or untouchable or unpalatable. So the “aghori” would wear the shroud taken off a dead body, or chose to remain naked or rub himself with ashes of the dead, or drink in vessels made of human skull only to negate the popular perception that these things are unholy or impure in a way emphasizing their core belief that nothing is impure as everything stands for Shiva and Shiva is perfect. Out of these very acts of the “aghoris” were born some of the incredible rumours that surround these unique followers of shiva.
Speaking to one of the senior members at the Baba Kinaram ashram, which is the main “akhada” or ashram or school of aghoris, I learnt that some of the rather revolting practices attributed to the “aghoris” were actually a sort of trick to which some of the “lost” followers of the sect resorted to instill fear in the minds of people and to eventually reap benefits by claiming to have attained supernatural powers. The real “aghori” would not resort to such cheap practices. To him, the path of “aghor” is the path of “swa-atmarama” or the realization that the “self” is the abode of the Supreme Being and in fact He resides in everything and hence everything is pure.
The “aghoris” claim lineage from the Avadhuta Siddhas of Kashi(Varanasi) which in turn emanated from Lord Shiva himself. The first aghor was Aghor Bhairavacharya of the 5th-6th century and his lineage was revived by Baba Kinaram in the 16th century after receiving darshan of Bhagwan Dattatreya who is a combination of divine trinity, Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh.
Can we really 'Save Our Tigers' ?
I find it funny how sometimes we the lesser beings, the common citizens are given the space on the stage(stage managed i would say) to express our indignation at such issues, by the media which obviously has its own ulterior motive(ever heard of TRP’s).And for some time, our silent protests, candlight rallies, peace marches and demonstrations are allowed to occupy centre stage in the popular media.And for this brief while, we the lesser beings are lulled in to the false belief that the power really lies with the public and that our protests have the power to change things.Our egos are inflated and we begin to feel like the heroes in our films who eventually manage to wrench justice from the perpetrators of injustice.But, doesn’t all this seem stage managed.I acknowledge that my some of my brethren really join such protests because they believe that they can make a difference and i respect their feelings.But I think that even before all of this starts, it seems that the perpetrators of such acts know the outcome. They know that slowly the momentum always fades out. Public memory is short.They know it. I can even imagine them sitting in their air-conditioned, luxurious houses, sipping vintage wine and smiling at our rallies and protest marches, knowing well that it is ok to let the ‘mob’ have its moment of glory even if it is for a ‘fleeting moment’. After all how long can the ’cattle class’ pursue such lofty ideals.Not for long I would say.After all, we all have hungry stomachs to take care of. Like always, we would huddle, plan, debate, shout and then disperse.
Pessimistic, coward, traitor, loser, et cetera et cetera. Maybe you would like to call me such names. You can probably cite a few examples too where by the”force” of popular opinion, tables were turned and the mighty had fallen. Or you would say that we should not give up hope, that we should not give up with out a fight or that things would change eventually or that the change has to come from within us or that we should lead by example or that we atleast have to do something rather than be silent spectators.My answer is cut the crap.Take a look at the facts and think realistically, what can probably save our tigers?
From the year 2004 to 2009, 30619 lakh rupees have been spent on Project tiger that was set up to manage the tiger reserves set up across the country and yet over these very years the number of tigers has only witnessed a steady decline. Tons of money was stashed away by ministers and wardens who were entrusted with the task of putting it to good use - to save the tiger. But then there is no good better than self-good is what the tribe of the ministers and bureacrats swear by.Add to it the commissions these guys make from the poachers. It’s a multi-million dollar business and the pay backs are way beyond numbers, you and me ever learnt to count. When questioned, these guys are quick to come up with some of the most incredible answers. They cite constraints like lack of staff, proper monitoring equipment and the difficult terrain etc. I mean, what the hell were the planners thinking when they allocated the budgets? Didn’t they know what needed to be done and how much money would be needed? Bullshit!! Fact is, these projects are just like other populist schemes which are created for the poor common man who for some funny reason remains untouched by these schemes.And miraculously, the account balance of a numbered account in the swiss banks goes up by several millions.
So what do you suggest? You may want to ask me.Well, I am willing to give you suggestions.But don’t expect me to do anything.Because I am just a common man with a family and I am too small to chase such ‘big’ objectives and I am only supposed to sit back and relent and curse and probably hurl a few verbal brickbats.That’s the max I can do.Like me or hate me.And my ‘roar’ is not good enough to be heard by those in power.For they live in glass bungalows, you see!! But yes, I have my ideas, you see like every common man.Mind you though that they are just ideas and are destined to remain so.Just as the tiger is destined to be wiped out.Sad, but true. But if you want ideas, here are some that you may also like to quote at parties, social gatherings and family dinners just so that you can emphasize the fact that you too care for the tiger and how deeply you think on the issue?It’s always good to have some talking points for issue that are in the social limelight, won’t you agree? There you go. Your are just like me. Anyways, here are the ideas - just make a mental note, will you?
1) Divide these tiger reserves in to small sectors of equal sizes and brainstorm to ascertain a realistic number of forest guards that would be needed to keep an effective control over the area.This cannot be too difficult
2) Hire trained guards for chrissakes!!. Don’t just find some poor villagers and mahouts.It’s time, a separate force like the paramilitary should be raised and trained for protection of these reserves. They should be full time professionals with benefits just like the para military forces and they should be paid well. Official penalties and penal action be taken against those found guilty of dereliction of duties. Every sector leader would be held directly responsible for loss of an animal in his territory to causes beyond clinically proven natural deaths. Penalties to include life time imprisonment for those found lacking in disposal of their duties. Shoot at sight orders for anyone in the core reserve area with intent of poaching or in possession of animal snares, guns etc
3) Instead of just patrolling the parks perimeter once in a month, these guards would stay inside these sectors. Jungle lodges and watch towers should be built in each of these sectors at strategic points and essential supplies air dropped if need be or else have a team of mahouts managing the logistics.Teams alternating between night and day to keep round the clock vigil.
4) All team should be equipped with all terrain vehicles, good guns, digital cameras, long range walkie-talkies,GPS devices and aerial support. The sectors should be carefully mapped using GPS systems, every animal in the sectors tagged as a data point and sector wise data regularly be collected and fed in to computers to identify patterns.The computers should be connected to weather forecasting systems too.
5)The team should be formed of educated men who can be trained by wildlife enthusiasts and volunteers who have championed the cause of animal protection.They should be taught how to read and interpret animal signs and behavious and how to monitor them in their natural surroundings while following the rules of zero intrusion and interference.
6) The tribes and villagers residing in the reserve area should either be relocated or they should be incentivised to become informers to share intelligence about the possible operations of poachers.More often than not, they collude with the poachers for small amounts of money and provide them with logistic support.The populations of these tribes should be monitored too, their data collected and build an informer network among these tribes to make up for valuable intelligence on what goes on inside the park?
7) Capital punishment for those caught in poaching activities anywhere in the country.Straight away life term.No concessions and no legal loop holes to help the sons-of-XXXXXXX.
And if a tiger dies, a report is sent directly to the prime minister explaining how it happened and why? And the prime minister is obliged to review and take appropriate action.
Yeah. Those are some straight forward ideas that can help save the poor tiger.And if you think, these are fanciful, unrealistic, or would-take-a-long time to implement, then let me tell you, you are being as unrealistic in believing that sloganeering, blogging, rallies, or candlight marches or TV debates can save the tigers.And if I hear you asking that why am i blogging on this issue then? Let me tell you my friend that I told you that these are just ideas for you to use as talking points during those inevitable discussions that would be there during office lunches, by the water cooler, in the train, on the bus and elsewhere.I am just giving you some meat for the conversation man.So you can show off as being aware and concerned.Thats all.You and me both know that the furure is going to die down soon just like the poor tiger.Here’s our chance to pretend to be knowledgeable and sound like an intellectual dude!.And none of these ideas are ever going to be put in to practice.The ministers are going to launch some ‘intelligent’ schemes that will add some more money to their accounts over the years and one fine day, they will inform us with the deepest of apologies that our national tiger is extinct. That will be one more occassion for us common people to carry out marches,rallies, express our indignation and to enjoy our collective moment of glory in the media.Its good for both - the media loves the ‘roaring’ TRP’s and we love the show they manage to put up on such issues.Really.And to think of what a day it will be, when the last tiger is finally gone too. Can you imagine, the intelligent perspectives that we will get to hear from our ministers? In hindsight of course. Or the blame game that will be played out in the parliament? Would’t you just love to be given a chance to voice your indignation, anger, and fristration with the system, just the way i am doing it now through this blog? It would be a field day for the media, wouldn’t it!! and it will be so much fun to see which minister manages to gain the maximum mileage from the loss of the last tiger.I am sort of jealous of the glorified burial the last tiger is destined to receive in our collective memories. No one in history would probably be a match.And all this for just a tiger